Still Poppin'?

I have loved re-discovering my Armenian culture and religion on this trip, but I have also really enjoyed learning about the political and economic climate. I am a tourist here, but I’m also not a tourist in many ways. Living in a house as opposed to a hotel has made us a part of Yerevan’s society. We go to the supermarkets and walk the streets of the employed and unemployed. We’ve learned not to buy fruit from supermarkets, but from stands on the street. We’ve also learned that to fit in, we have to wear dresses and heels, not shorts and flats.

What has helped me the most is knowing how to understand, speak, and read the language. Not only does it help me bargain with venders who would otherwise jack up prices, but it has also allowed me to learn about the plight of Yerevantsis (citizens of Yerevan).

Compared to villagers, citizens of Yerevan are much more politically aware (which makes sense as Yerevan is the nation’s capitol). Interestingly enough, through living here, I’ve learned that economically, times aren’t the best here. If we think 4.6% unemployment in the States is bad, 7.2% in a small country like Yerevan must have devastating consequences. Through speaking with taxi drivers and restaurant/café waiters, I’ve learned that a majority of them have degrees in engineering, medicine, and journalism. However, they are incapable of finding work so they resort to jobs such as these. Every college-age individual I have met is enrolled in a university, but is unsure about his or her ability to find work after graduation. Having a bachelors, a masters, or even a doctorate is no guarantee for financial stability. Walking around Yerevan, you see brand new Mercedes Benz G Wagons parked in front of beggars pleading for 100 Dram (about 30 cents). The gap between the rich and poor is wide and my sense is that the middle class is not very strong here.

Walking down Northern Avenue right by the Republic Square (formerly, Lenin Square), there are newly constructed and beautiful buildings with expensive designer boutiques and luxurious apartments. The construction, designed by architect Alexander Tamanyan, is incredibly modern and reminiscent of The Grove, The Americana, and Rodeo Drive. The very existence of Northern Avenue is a testament to capitalism developing in Armenia, as construction plans were halted during the USSR. However, its existence is also a testament to the fact that living headquarters of Armenian citizens are being destroyed to cater to the needs of the wealthy and the tourists. Right next to these new buildings are older apartments with signs hanging from them pleading “Don’t Tear This Down, We Live Here.” It’s very obvious that only a small class of Yerevantsis can actually afford to live in these apartments and shop at these stores. In fact, when I spoke to Lorena’s family, I learned that they were mainly built for tourists. It should come as no surprise that one of the lead architects of Northern Avenue was murdered by a group of Armenians. The Armenian Government also fully embraces the notion of eminent domain, as it is very unlikely that the older buildings will stay standing in a midst of all the luxurious development. It is bitter sweet. Sweet in that tourism will likely stimulate the Armenian economy, but incredibly bitter in that many Armenians have been and will continue to be displaced.

Just as I noted that culture here is incredibly poppin’, so is political activity. There are regular protests in the Republic Square and on Northern Avenue opposing the current president and the construction. Some say that the entire city is run by the Mafia, even alleging that if one’s license plate ends in 10, it means they are from the Mob. How do they claim the Mafia runs the city? Some say they buy out large businesses and disenfranchise many of the workers. I’ve even heard a myth that the beggars on the street are all working for the mafia. I don’t know how much weight I can give these accounts, but what I can say is that the typical Yerevan citizen is not content with the condition of the city. Just like interest groups buy out congressman, real estate developers have a tremendous influence on Armenian politics. Dodig Gago, known for developing nearly half of Armenia, has his own political party in the Armenian government. We drove by one of his houses, by the way, and it was pretty amazing. “Money talks.”

So what does this all have to say about the Soviet Union? Well, the more I speak to people, the more I hear that economically, everything was better. There was no rich, there was no poor. The Soviet Union provided jobs and food, sustaining the typical Armenian family. It sounds like communism wasn’t all that bad for the Armenians, right?
Not necessarily.

While the typical Armenian family had their physical needs fulfilled, they were struggling spiritually, as Karekin II graciously pointed out. Many churches were shut down and Soviet officials monitored how often open churches were allowed to conduct the Divine Liturgy. From the perspective of the religious leaders, Armenia was struggling. The Apostolic faith which is so critical to the development of Armenian culture and identity was butchered under the Soviet Union. So, the physical subsistence came at a hefty price.

I still have so much to learn about the USSR (and so much more to write), but Armine just called me asking me to go out to a cafe, so I have to get ready. SBI.

<3 taties.