I have loved re-discovering my Armenian culture and religion on this trip, but I have also really enjoyed learning about the political and economic climate. I am a tourist here, but I’m also not a tourist in many ways. Living in a house as opposed to a hotel has made us a part of Yerevan’s society. We go to the supermarkets and walk the streets of the employed and unemployed. We’ve learned not to buy fruit from supermarkets, but from stands on the street. We’ve also learned that to fit in, we have to wear dresses and heels, not shorts and flats.
What has helped me the most is knowing how to understand, speak, and read the language. Not only does it help me bargain with venders who would otherwise jack up prices, but it has also allowed me to learn about the plight of Yerevantsis (citizens of Yerevan).
Compared to villagers, citizens of Yerevan are much more politically aware (which makes sense as Yerevan is the nation’s capitol). Interestingly enough, through living here, I’ve learned that economically, times aren’t the best here. If we think 4.6% unemployment in the States is bad, 7.2% in a small country like Yerevan must have devastating consequences. Through speaking with taxi drivers and restaurant/café waiters, I’ve learned that a majority of them have degrees in engineering, medicine, and journalism. However, they are incapable of finding work so they resort to jobs such as these. Every college-age individual I have met is enrolled in a university, but is unsure about his or her ability to find work after graduation. Having a bachelors, a masters, or even a doctorate is no guarantee for financial stability. Walking around Yerevan, you see brand new Mercedes Benz G Wagons parked in front of beggars pleading for 100 Dram (about 30 cents). The gap between the rich and poor is wide and my sense is that the middle class is not very strong here.
Walking down Northern Avenue right by the Republic Square (formerly, Lenin Square), there are newly constructed and beautiful buildings with expensive designer boutiques and luxurious apartments. The construction, designed by architect Alexander Tamanyan, is incredibly modern and reminiscent of The Grove, The Americana, and Rodeo Drive. The very existence of Northern Avenue is a testament to capitalism developing in Armenia, as construction plans were halted during the USSR. However, its existence is also a testament to the fact that living headquarters of Armenian citizens are being destroyed to cater to the needs of the wealthy and the tourists. Right next to these new buildings are older apartments with signs hanging from them pleading “Don’t Tear This Down, We Live Here.” It’s very obvious that only a small class of Yerevantsis can actually afford to live in these apartments and shop at these stores. In fact, when I spoke to Lorena’s family, I learned that they were mainly built for tourists. It should come as no surprise that one of the lead architects of Northern Avenue was murdered by a group of Armenians. The Armenian Government also fully embraces the notion of eminent domain, as it is very unlikely that the older buildings will stay standing in a midst of all the luxurious development. It is bitter sweet. Sweet in that tourism will likely stimulate the Armenian economy, but incredibly bitter in that many Armenians have been and will continue to be displaced.
Just as I noted that culture here is incredibly poppin’, so is political activity. There are regular protests in the Republic Square and on Northern Avenue opposing the current president and the construction. Some say that the entire city is run by the Mafia, even alleging that if one’s license plate ends in 10, it means they are from the Mob. How do they claim the Mafia runs the city? Some say they buy out large businesses and disenfranchise many of the workers. I’ve even heard a myth that the beggars on the street are all working for the mafia. I don’t know how much weight I can give these accounts, but what I can say is that the typical Yerevan citizen is not content with the condition of the city. Just like interest groups buy out congressman, real estate developers have a tremendous influence on Armenian politics. Dodig Gago, known for developing nearly half of Armenia, has his own political party in the Armenian government. We drove by one of his houses, by the way, and it was pretty amazing. “Money talks.”
So what does this all have to say about the Soviet Union? Well, the more I speak to people, the more I hear that economically, everything was better. There was no rich, there was no poor. The Soviet Union provided jobs and food, sustaining the typical Armenian family. It sounds like communism wasn’t all that bad for the Armenians, right?
Not necessarily.
While the typical Armenian family had their physical needs fulfilled, they were struggling spiritually, as Karekin II graciously pointed out. Many churches were shut down and Soviet officials monitored how often open churches were allowed to conduct the Divine Liturgy. From the perspective of the religious leaders, Armenia was struggling. The Apostolic faith which is so critical to the development of Armenian culture and identity was butchered under the Soviet Union. So, the physical subsistence came at a hefty price.
I still have so much to learn about the USSR (and so much more to write), but Armine just called me asking me to go out to a cafe, so I have to get ready. SBI.
<3 taties.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
In an Apricot shell...
We just got back from a long day church/medieval fortress/mountain hopping. We went to Saghmosavank, Amberd, and Mouth Aragats. I enjoyed climbing the remnants of the fotress and castle. We climbed the rocks and looked out on the beautifulness which was nothingness. Our mideivil ancestors chose an ideal location to build this thing. I could just imagine the lords waking up in the mornings and embracing the ambience of greenery and fresh air. We stayed there for a while [[…mainly because we are not pro rock climbers and it took a while to get up and down. ]]
So, what does Dalida miss about the States? Safely paved roads.
I defs don’t. A huge part of the Armenian experience has to do with having bubbly bus drivers who speed down rocky roads and laugh when we go through dramatic bumps causing passengers to fall out of their seats. Not only are the places we visit epiK, but so our the rides down (or up, left, and right). I should note that we cruise around the country in a nice, royal blue, Mercedes Benz bus. But anyways, our latest bus driver is quite the character. Last Sunday he drove us to Geghart church for service followed by a barbecue in a village called Garni. He definitely pulled out his homemade mulberry vodka and offered it to us. I had a sip and it was more than enough, but his generosity was much appreciated. This same bus driver also drove us to Lake Sevan and busted out a bathing suit, jumped in the lake, and dragged in several of our girls. Bus drivers in Armenia become part of your family. When we stop to eat, they come with us. When we go to a hotel, they stay in rooms with us. When we crave lavash with basterma, they find it for us. When we see this guy, we greet him with a kiss. When we leave, we say farewell with another kiss. (by the way, Armenians in Armenia do the single kiss. No idea why the double cheek kiss developed in the states, but it’s awkward if you do both here. I learned the hard way.)
But anyways, Geghart church last Sunday was beautiful. We drove about an hour uphill to get to it (bumpily, might I add), but it was worth it. I have never heard such a beautiful choir. Highlights: seeing Paris Hilton outside with her dog (she’s definitely put on some weight, poor thing), Lorena fainting in the lobby and the congregation just staring at her, and of course, the Amazing view. The church was not decorated ornately, but the divine liturgy was enchanting. It definitely glamorized the rocky and dark walls.
So while we’re on the topic of attending Sunday mass, I’d like to discuss our eventful day at Etchmiadzin. Etchmiadzin is the oldest church in the world, built almost immediately after Christianity was declared as a state religion in the fourth century. It is beautiful inside and out, decorated with byzantine-esque art and amazing Katchkars (cross stones). Naturally, I had to juxtapose this amazingness with my awkwardness.
Taties’ Six Strikes at Etchmiadzin:
- Placing my foot on a Holy Altar, causing an elderly man to silently scold me
-Hitting a man without legs in a wheelchair with my purse
-Elbowing an elderly woman in the face
-Talking to the leader of the Eastern Diocese and angering the choir director
-Going outside after angering the choir director and sitting on the tomb of a former Catholicos, prompting one of the Archbishops to tell me that I can’t sit there (woops?)
-Dropping Holy Bread on the ground
None of these were done intentionally and naturally, I felt reallyREALLYreally horrible after each strike. IRRegardless, I really enjoyed the service there. The acoustics were incredible, and even more amazing while I was sitting outside. I took about a thousand pictures and videos. While everything awed me, being there was very similar to being at Saint Peter on a Sunday. It amazes me how the Armenian Apostolic Divine Liturgy is so consistent and timeless.
After church, we had an appointment to meet with Karekin II, the Catholicos of Armenians (aka the Pope of the Armenian church). He delivered a presentation about his duties and how he reached such an honorable position. He also emphasized the importance of being passionate about our project in Gyumri which we will be leaving for on the 20th. Then, I got his autograph.
After meeting with him, we went into the room where they store the gifts that countries and individuals have made to the Armenian church. I almost committed strike seven when I almost sat on one of the thrones that Pope John Paul II gave to Karekin II on the 1700 Year anniversary of Armenian Christianity. Luckily, someone else in our group stopped me before the travesty was able to transgress. Even more incredible than the thrones were the jeweled stones that were kept in safes. In the 1970s when Armenia was still under Soviet Rule, shipments of gold were not allowed to any individual, so people who wanted to make gifts to the Catholicos had to do so in the form of jewelery. Not knowing what to do with all this jewelry, the Catholicos at the time melted it all and made these two blinged out statues of marble, diamonds, rubies, and gold. One of them displays the Armenian Alphabet and another is an Armenian Apostolic Cross. Pretty sure they are both priceless.
Aside from this amazing church hopping, we also met with the Canadian and Eastern Dioceses several days ago. We went out to lunch and discussed the different projects that we are completing out here. The Eastern Diocese spent some time at the Vanadzor Day Camp working with the children. The Canadian Diocese spent some time in a village working with the locals. We got pretty close with the Eastern Diocese and we went out with them in the evening twice. We went to this beautiful Armenian restuarant called Parvana where we enjoyed traditional Armenian food and amazing dance music. Tatoul, the famous Armenian singer, also made an appearance and Dalida and I took a picture with him. Unfortunately, their trip of the Eastern Diocese ended yesterday morning. Fortunately, I made really good friends with many of them and now I have people to hang out with when I go to DC in the Winter.
On July 9th, we went to two museums in Yerevan. In the first museum (the Matenadaran), we saw old manuscripts and in the second one, we learned about Armenian history from dynasty to genocide to Soviet Rule to the republic it is today. The museum with the manuscripts was fascinating. There were documents that dated back to the 5th century when the Armenian Alphabet was established. We saw translations of Aristotle’s writings, the first Armenian drafts of the four gospels, and a decree by Napoleon which has nothing to do with Armenian history (someone donated it to us).
Tomorrow at 8AM we leave for Artsakh, which is said to be one of the most beautiful villages. We are staying there for three days and once we get back we are going to leave for Gyumri to begin our house-building project there. I will update again once we are back!
So, what does Dalida miss about the States? Safely paved roads.
I defs don’t. A huge part of the Armenian experience has to do with having bubbly bus drivers who speed down rocky roads and laugh when we go through dramatic bumps causing passengers to fall out of their seats. Not only are the places we visit epiK, but so our the rides down (or up, left, and right). I should note that we cruise around the country in a nice, royal blue, Mercedes Benz bus. But anyways, our latest bus driver is quite the character. Last Sunday he drove us to Geghart church for service followed by a barbecue in a village called Garni. He definitely pulled out his homemade mulberry vodka and offered it to us. I had a sip and it was more than enough, but his generosity was much appreciated. This same bus driver also drove us to Lake Sevan and busted out a bathing suit, jumped in the lake, and dragged in several of our girls. Bus drivers in Armenia become part of your family. When we stop to eat, they come with us. When we go to a hotel, they stay in rooms with us. When we crave lavash with basterma, they find it for us. When we see this guy, we greet him with a kiss. When we leave, we say farewell with another kiss. (by the way, Armenians in Armenia do the single kiss. No idea why the double cheek kiss developed in the states, but it’s awkward if you do both here. I learned the hard way.)
But anyways, Geghart church last Sunday was beautiful. We drove about an hour uphill to get to it (bumpily, might I add), but it was worth it. I have never heard such a beautiful choir. Highlights: seeing Paris Hilton outside with her dog (she’s definitely put on some weight, poor thing), Lorena fainting in the lobby and the congregation just staring at her, and of course, the Amazing view. The church was not decorated ornately, but the divine liturgy was enchanting. It definitely glamorized the rocky and dark walls.
So while we’re on the topic of attending Sunday mass, I’d like to discuss our eventful day at Etchmiadzin. Etchmiadzin is the oldest church in the world, built almost immediately after Christianity was declared as a state religion in the fourth century. It is beautiful inside and out, decorated with byzantine-esque art and amazing Katchkars (cross stones). Naturally, I had to juxtapose this amazingness with my awkwardness.
Taties’ Six Strikes at Etchmiadzin:
- Placing my foot on a Holy Altar, causing an elderly man to silently scold me
-Hitting a man without legs in a wheelchair with my purse
-Elbowing an elderly woman in the face
-Talking to the leader of the Eastern Diocese and angering the choir director
-Going outside after angering the choir director and sitting on the tomb of a former Catholicos, prompting one of the Archbishops to tell me that I can’t sit there (woops?)
-Dropping Holy Bread on the ground
None of these were done intentionally and naturally, I felt reallyREALLYreally horrible after each strike. IRRegardless, I really enjoyed the service there. The acoustics were incredible, and even more amazing while I was sitting outside. I took about a thousand pictures and videos. While everything awed me, being there was very similar to being at Saint Peter on a Sunday. It amazes me how the Armenian Apostolic Divine Liturgy is so consistent and timeless.
After church, we had an appointment to meet with Karekin II, the Catholicos of Armenians (aka the Pope of the Armenian church). He delivered a presentation about his duties and how he reached such an honorable position. He also emphasized the importance of being passionate about our project in Gyumri which we will be leaving for on the 20th. Then, I got his autograph.
After meeting with him, we went into the room where they store the gifts that countries and individuals have made to the Armenian church. I almost committed strike seven when I almost sat on one of the thrones that Pope John Paul II gave to Karekin II on the 1700 Year anniversary of Armenian Christianity. Luckily, someone else in our group stopped me before the travesty was able to transgress. Even more incredible than the thrones were the jeweled stones that were kept in safes. In the 1970s when Armenia was still under Soviet Rule, shipments of gold were not allowed to any individual, so people who wanted to make gifts to the Catholicos had to do so in the form of jewelery. Not knowing what to do with all this jewelry, the Catholicos at the time melted it all and made these two blinged out statues of marble, diamonds, rubies, and gold. One of them displays the Armenian Alphabet and another is an Armenian Apostolic Cross. Pretty sure they are both priceless.
Aside from this amazing church hopping, we also met with the Canadian and Eastern Dioceses several days ago. We went out to lunch and discussed the different projects that we are completing out here. The Eastern Diocese spent some time at the Vanadzor Day Camp working with the children. The Canadian Diocese spent some time in a village working with the locals. We got pretty close with the Eastern Diocese and we went out with them in the evening twice. We went to this beautiful Armenian restuarant called Parvana where we enjoyed traditional Armenian food and amazing dance music. Tatoul, the famous Armenian singer, also made an appearance and Dalida and I took a picture with him. Unfortunately, their trip of the Eastern Diocese ended yesterday morning. Fortunately, I made really good friends with many of them and now I have people to hang out with when I go to DC in the Winter.
On July 9th, we went to two museums in Yerevan. In the first museum (the Matenadaran), we saw old manuscripts and in the second one, we learned about Armenian history from dynasty to genocide to Soviet Rule to the republic it is today. The museum with the manuscripts was fascinating. There were documents that dated back to the 5th century when the Armenian Alphabet was established. We saw translations of Aristotle’s writings, the first Armenian drafts of the four gospels, and a decree by Napoleon which has nothing to do with Armenian history (someone donated it to us).
Tomorrow at 8AM we leave for Artsakh, which is said to be one of the most beautiful villages. We are staying there for three days and once we get back we are going to leave for Gyumri to begin our house-building project there. I will update again once we are back!
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Nightlife
It would take me forever to detail what we do after our scheduled activities in the evenings. What I can say is that the Nightlife in Yerevan is tireless. Tireless and diverse. Clubs, Discoclubs, Rock Clubs, Night Clubs (we stay away from those...), Bars, Kareoke Bars, The Republic Square, Cafes, Jazz Cafes... There is always something to do. People are out until odd hours dancing, lounging, singing, and having a fabulous time. I should also note that Armenians keep it classy. You don't see people intoxicated or incoherent anywhere. Interestingly enough, it is legal to cruise around from club to club beer in hand...or even shot glass in hand.
Of the many places we have gone, I have enjoyed the Beatles Bar and Cafe Rich the most. The cafes here are unlike the cafes we have back in the states. In the heart of Yerevan, there is a row of cafes and each one has a different ambience. They are set up with luxurious patio furniture outside where groups of friends can sit around and have drinks or smoke hookah. You can choose the environment you prefer because your options are really unlimited. Thus far, we have gone to the Grammy Cafe, Kotayk Cafe, Jezzve Cafe, and Cafe Rich. The hospitality at Cafe Rich was great so it's my favorite as of now. I have yet to go to the Glamour Cafe so we'll see how long that will last...
We went to the Beatles Bar last night and I loved it. The whole place was decorated with photographs and albums of the Beatles and they played their music all night. Thanks to Robert, I learned a lot about the band. We will definitely be going back. I met this awesome graduate of Julliard who is in Armenia for six months building nightclubs and exploring just like CYMA. It turns out he will be playing jazz there later this week, so we are all excited to go see him. Plus indie fersherrr.
I would love to detail the other cafes, restuarants, and clubs we have been to but to be honest, I'd much rather go and further explore the city with my CYMA family.
sorryboutit.
In short, everything is awesome and I wish you all were here to experience it.
Saturday, July 4, 2009
Overview <3
I love Armenia..
It may be because I am still on California time, but I wake up happy at 6 AM every morning. I love the house we are living in and I love all of the others on the trip. We are a family already and I know I will be friends with these individuals for the rest of my life.We all seem to feel like we have been here for such a long time, even though it has been only three days. My guess is that it feels like this because our days are so productive. Lorena told her dad about this feeling and her dad told her that "it feels like you guys have been there so long because that is where you are all from." This is probably the case. This is my motherland. I feel such a deep connection to the other Armenians here. I am so proud of everything we have accomplished in spite of how we have been conquered, used, and massacred throughout history.
Living in Yerevan, it is impossible to be lazy. People walk everywhere for food, work, and school. Obesity is definitely not an issue here in spite of all the amazing food. Everyone works hard for everything they have. Nothing comes easily.
The Soviet Influence is still present, but only physically. The star is still found on many of the old buildings and cars. Also, Russian is still taught in the public schools. However, by no means do Armenians identify themselves as Russian. Culture here is poppin' and Armenians know that their Armenian culture is what defines them. I've heard mixed accounts on whether or not the USSR was good for Armenia. Some of the older residents say that economically, things were good under Soviet Rule. Food was always available and all of their needs were fulfilled. Also, after the USSR fell Armenia entered a severe economic depression. Although one cannot state with certainty that this was because of the fall of the USSR, there is definitely a strong correlation between the two events. This also makes sense because that period was undoubtedly a drastic transition for the entire country. The younger residents believe that Armenia is definitely doing better now. We have independence, our own government, and our own clear identity. I tend to agree with this. I don't think we are struggling now and I know that our culture is still poppin'. Hopeully I can more concisely answer this question by the end of my trip.
It may be because I am still on California time, but I wake up happy at 6 AM every morning. I love the house we are living in and I love all of the others on the trip. We are a family already and I know I will be friends with these individuals for the rest of my life.We all seem to feel like we have been here for such a long time, even though it has been only three days. My guess is that it feels like this because our days are so productive. Lorena told her dad about this feeling and her dad told her that "it feels like you guys have been there so long because that is where you are all from." This is probably the case. This is my motherland. I feel such a deep connection to the other Armenians here. I am so proud of everything we have accomplished in spite of how we have been conquered, used, and massacred throughout history.
Living in Yerevan, it is impossible to be lazy. People walk everywhere for food, work, and school. Obesity is definitely not an issue here in spite of all the amazing food. Everyone works hard for everything they have. Nothing comes easily.
The Soviet Influence is still present, but only physically. The star is still found on many of the old buildings and cars. Also, Russian is still taught in the public schools. However, by no means do Armenians identify themselves as Russian. Culture here is poppin' and Armenians know that their Armenian culture is what defines them. I've heard mixed accounts on whether or not the USSR was good for Armenia. Some of the older residents say that economically, things were good under Soviet Rule. Food was always available and all of their needs were fulfilled. Also, after the USSR fell Armenia entered a severe economic depression. Although one cannot state with certainty that this was because of the fall of the USSR, there is definitely a strong correlation between the two events. This also makes sense because that period was undoubtedly a drastic transition for the entire country. The younger residents believe that Armenia is definitely doing better now. We have independence, our own government, and our own clear identity. I tend to agree with this. I don't think we are struggling now and I know that our culture is still poppin'. Hopeully I can more concisely answer this question by the end of my trip.
Days 1-3
I almost wish I had enough time to consistently update this because there is no way I can effectively communicate how amazing everything is several days later.
July 2nd, we landed at 3:12 AM in Yerevan International Airport. We purchased our visas, claimed our luggage, and took a bus to our amazing house. Before landing in Yerevan, we landed in Moscow, Russia. I was hoping to see men in snow caps and babooshkas. What I did see was incessant daylight and rude babooshkas. We were in that airport for about 5 hours. Needless to say, I was much more excited about landing in Armenia. Nothing against Russia, but Armenia is my Motherland. I felt overwhelmed with emotion as the plane descended. After years of studying Armenian history, language, and culture, I was finally there to experience it first hand. I can't even emphasize how beautiful our house is. We are in a prime location just down the street from the Armenian Parliament and a 15 minute walk from the Hrabarack (Republic Square). The house has three bedrooms downstairs and three upstairs. The girls are in doubles downstairs and the guys are in the rooms upstairs. It has two bathrooms but only one shower, which is typical of Armenian homes. Our coordinators, Armine and Sarah advised us not to sleep but to stay awake, but I crashed after my shower. Breakfast was awesome. Fresh lavash (Armenian flat bread), TOMATOES, cucumbers, Tziran (Apricots...which are native to Armenia), cheese, and sweetSWEETsweet watermelon. Believe me when I say this--but you have not tasted real fruit until you've had an Armenian apricot or tomatoe. Invest $1200 in a plane ticket just to come here and have the fruit.
After breakfast, we took a walk to the Republic Square to call our families. Everyone was staring at us because we were in shorts and flats. It's typical for women to dress in shiny skinny pants, sequen blouses, and high heeled shoes in the daytime. And all of this must be complimented by heavy evening makeup. After the breif tour of Yerevan, we took a bus to Mayr Hayastan which is a monument of a large Armenian woman holding a sword facing Turkey. It symbolizes the fact that the Turks will never again conquer and massacre the Armenian people. We also went inside the neighboring museum which was dedicated to Armenian Soviet soldiers who perished during WW2. The woman at the museum took us to the bottom level and showed us soldier uniforms and photograph of Stalin surrounded by Armenian soldiers.
We then went to Erebouni, which is the ancient city of Yerevan--where Armenia is said to have originated. We saw pagan temples, ancient symbols, and remains from the civilization that existed. I love museums and I love ancient history but something was different about seeing the remains of the Erebouni civilization. These were the remains of my ancestors. I learned that this civlization was just 38 years younger than that of Rome. We climbed down the epic hill and then went to get lunch in the city. I had a chicken chawerma (so much better than Zankou) and it only cost 350 drams (which is roughly the equivalent of $.90). After lunch we came home and I crashed....until 4 AM the next morning.
July 3rd, we took a 10 AM bus to Khorvirap, which is where Armenia's declaration of Christianity can be attributed. We climed down into the pit where St. Gregory the Illuminator was kept for 14 years prior to healing King Drtad, who declared Christianity as Armenia's official religion in 301 AD (even before the Roman Empire). We went into the church and lit a candle. Then, the priest came out and offered a brief history on the establishment of the monastary and the church. Being in the pit was surreal. This pit was the reason why many other empires and civlizations were encouraged to adopt Christianity as a state religion. Accompanying us on the trip is a professor from Pepperdine University who is studying Armenian religion and history. Seeing his fascination with this monument legit gave me butterflies. This place isn't just special to Armenians, but apparently people from around the world come to see it.
After Khorvirap, we had lunch in the city. We then went to see the Paros Chamber Choir, which is a choir funded by the Paros Foundation. It started as a group of individuals incapacitated by the 1988 earthquake and it is now made of citizens who advocate for disability rights. Their performance was incredible and some lucky person back home will be recieving the CD I purchased from them.
We had dinner at The Club, which is a gourmet restaurant. We learned that it is the favorite of the author of The Alchemist. Then, we went to Grammy Cafe and had some coffee/tea. We met up with some UCLA students and went to Aftershock club. It was completely empty when we walked in at 1 AM, but by 2 AM it was poppin! We stayed there until about 4 and took a cab home.
Happy Independence Day yallz! Today, we went to Square One, which is an American restaurant, for lunch. I ordered the Yerevan Express, lawlz. Then, we walked home and got ready for the Manana Youth Center, which is a part time school of arts for children. They teach motivated and talented students skills in animation, photography, film, and journalism. The facility is funded by the Paros Foundation, which is an NGO that supports programs like this throughout Armenia. I was so impressed by the work that these children produced. They are all so bright and refreshing to be around. We spoke to them for a while and I learned more about their individual stories. I asked one girl Diana what she wanted to become when she was older and she responded with "spiritual." Not exactly the conventional "lawyer," "doctor," or "engineer" response we are accustomed to back in the states. These kids think out of the box and their work is a reflection of that. Everything they produce has potential to touch someone or open someone's eyes. I took pictures of some of the things they have photographed and I will post them on facebook. I didn't want that visit to be the last time I had contact with these kids so I promised them I would be back to visit later on this month or when I return to Armenia in the future. A group of girls asked me for my email address so I hope to hear about their successes soon. I am confident that these kids are "Moving Mountains" now and will continue to do so in the future. Armenia may not be the wealthiest nation, but it is definitely one of the richest in culture and these children contribute to this culture in such an inspirational way.
July 2nd, we landed at 3:12 AM in Yerevan International Airport. We purchased our visas, claimed our luggage, and took a bus to our amazing house. Before landing in Yerevan, we landed in Moscow, Russia. I was hoping to see men in snow caps and babooshkas. What I did see was incessant daylight and rude babooshkas. We were in that airport for about 5 hours. Needless to say, I was much more excited about landing in Armenia. Nothing against Russia, but Armenia is my Motherland. I felt overwhelmed with emotion as the plane descended. After years of studying Armenian history, language, and culture, I was finally there to experience it first hand. I can't even emphasize how beautiful our house is. We are in a prime location just down the street from the Armenian Parliament and a 15 minute walk from the Hrabarack (Republic Square). The house has three bedrooms downstairs and three upstairs. The girls are in doubles downstairs and the guys are in the rooms upstairs. It has two bathrooms but only one shower, which is typical of Armenian homes. Our coordinators, Armine and Sarah advised us not to sleep but to stay awake, but I crashed after my shower. Breakfast was awesome. Fresh lavash (Armenian flat bread), TOMATOES, cucumbers, Tziran (Apricots...which are native to Armenia), cheese, and sweetSWEETsweet watermelon. Believe me when I say this--but you have not tasted real fruit until you've had an Armenian apricot or tomatoe. Invest $1200 in a plane ticket just to come here and have the fruit.
After breakfast, we took a walk to the Republic Square to call our families. Everyone was staring at us because we were in shorts and flats. It's typical for women to dress in shiny skinny pants, sequen blouses, and high heeled shoes in the daytime. And all of this must be complimented by heavy evening makeup. After the breif tour of Yerevan, we took a bus to Mayr Hayastan which is a monument of a large Armenian woman holding a sword facing Turkey. It symbolizes the fact that the Turks will never again conquer and massacre the Armenian people. We also went inside the neighboring museum which was dedicated to Armenian Soviet soldiers who perished during WW2. The woman at the museum took us to the bottom level and showed us soldier uniforms and photograph of Stalin surrounded by Armenian soldiers.
We then went to Erebouni, which is the ancient city of Yerevan--where Armenia is said to have originated. We saw pagan temples, ancient symbols, and remains from the civilization that existed. I love museums and I love ancient history but something was different about seeing the remains of the Erebouni civilization. These were the remains of my ancestors. I learned that this civlization was just 38 years younger than that of Rome. We climbed down the epic hill and then went to get lunch in the city. I had a chicken chawerma (so much better than Zankou) and it only cost 350 drams (which is roughly the equivalent of $.90). After lunch we came home and I crashed....until 4 AM the next morning.
July 3rd, we took a 10 AM bus to Khorvirap, which is where Armenia's declaration of Christianity can be attributed. We climed down into the pit where St. Gregory the Illuminator was kept for 14 years prior to healing King Drtad, who declared Christianity as Armenia's official religion in 301 AD (even before the Roman Empire). We went into the church and lit a candle. Then, the priest came out and offered a brief history on the establishment of the monastary and the church. Being in the pit was surreal. This pit was the reason why many other empires and civlizations were encouraged to adopt Christianity as a state religion. Accompanying us on the trip is a professor from Pepperdine University who is studying Armenian religion and history. Seeing his fascination with this monument legit gave me butterflies. This place isn't just special to Armenians, but apparently people from around the world come to see it.
After Khorvirap, we had lunch in the city. We then went to see the Paros Chamber Choir, which is a choir funded by the Paros Foundation. It started as a group of individuals incapacitated by the 1988 earthquake and it is now made of citizens who advocate for disability rights. Their performance was incredible and some lucky person back home will be recieving the CD I purchased from them.
We had dinner at The Club, which is a gourmet restaurant. We learned that it is the favorite of the author of The Alchemist. Then, we went to Grammy Cafe and had some coffee/tea. We met up with some UCLA students and went to Aftershock club. It was completely empty when we walked in at 1 AM, but by 2 AM it was poppin! We stayed there until about 4 and took a cab home.
Happy Independence Day yallz! Today, we went to Square One, which is an American restaurant, for lunch. I ordered the Yerevan Express, lawlz. Then, we walked home and got ready for the Manana Youth Center, which is a part time school of arts for children. They teach motivated and talented students skills in animation, photography, film, and journalism. The facility is funded by the Paros Foundation, which is an NGO that supports programs like this throughout Armenia. I was so impressed by the work that these children produced. They are all so bright and refreshing to be around. We spoke to them for a while and I learned more about their individual stories. I asked one girl Diana what she wanted to become when she was older and she responded with "spiritual." Not exactly the conventional "lawyer," "doctor," or "engineer" response we are accustomed to back in the states. These kids think out of the box and their work is a reflection of that. Everything they produce has potential to touch someone or open someone's eyes. I took pictures of some of the things they have photographed and I will post them on facebook. I didn't want that visit to be the last time I had contact with these kids so I promised them I would be back to visit later on this month or when I return to Armenia in the future. A group of girls asked me for my email address so I hope to hear about their successes soon. I am confident that these kids are "Moving Mountains" now and will continue to do so in the future. Armenia may not be the wealthiest nation, but it is definitely one of the richest in culture and these children contribute to this culture in such an inspirational way.
Friday, June 26, 2009
Trip Itinerary :)
Schedule--
June 30:
Depart LAX
Yerevan City Tour
July 03
Khorvirap
Paros Chamber Choir Meeting in Yerevan
July 04
US Independence day in Yerevan (apparently this is huge there!)
Manana Youth Center in Yerevan
July 5
Badarak at Geghard
Visit to Garni
July 6-8
Vanadzor
Haghpat Sanahin, Haghartsin, Dilkijan
July 9
Climb Mount Aragats
Evening Event in Yerevan
July 10
Meeting with Eastern and Canadian Youth groups in Etchmiadzin
July 11
Lake Sevan
Evening event in Yerevan
July 12
Badarak Etchmizdzin
Saradabad & Dzvartnots
July 13
Hamberd and Saghmosvank
Dr. Dyron Leaves Armenia
July 14
Free day in Yerevan
July 15-18 Artsakh
Noravank, Datev, Artsakh, Shushi
July 20-July 27
Gyrumi Service Project
July 28-30
Free days in Yerevan
July 31
Depart Yerevan =(
Countdown: 4 Days
In four days, I will be on an Aeuroflot flight headed to Moscow, Russia which will be re-directed to Yerevan, Armenia.
I will be going with CYMA, which stands for Christian Youth Mission to Armenia. Every summer, this program takes young members of the Armenian church to their motherland to sight-see and to intern. This organization sprouted from ACYO, which is the youth group I have been involved with since I entered high school.
What started out as a two week tour is now a one month mission to "move mountains." While in Armenia, we will be working in orphanages and completing a service project where we will rebuild a home that was crushed by the tragic 1988 earthquake.
The following article published by the program explains everything we will be doing:
http://groong.usc.edu/news/msg274291.html
In Armenia, I will be living in a house with all of the other students. Some of these students I have known for a long time, and others I will be meeting for the first time. I am excited to get to know each and every one of them :)
Our trip is expected to be very busy, but I will do my best to update with all my epic adventures!
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